We entered the inn [near Hakodate] and set about preparing dinner, part of which, consisting of preserved meats, we had brought with us. The hostess supplied fish, eggs, and rice, with other items of Japanese fare. Seated in the fashion of the country in the interior of the building, our repast formed a sort of theatrical representation to the whole village. Men, women, and children crowded to the bars of the window to have a good look, and, if their amusement might be judged of by their laughter, they had plenty of it in seeing the barbarians eating.
Japan, the Amoor, and the Pacific (1861)
In the afternoon, pleasure-parties from the shore used to come and inspect us [on our ship in Edo Bay]; boat-loads of ladies, with a great deal of white powder on their cheeks, and lips painted a brilliant vermilion, gazed on us with the utmost interest and delight, making witty remarks at our expense, and then laughing immoderately.
Narrative of the Earl of Elgin’s Mission to China and Japan (1859)
The Japanese have the greatest hatred of the Chinese: they do not acknowledge them as neighbors, and were anxious to have us understand that they were not Chinese.
A Cruise in the U.S. Steam Frigate Mississippi (1860)
We rode too fast [through the streets of Edo] to permit of a crowd thronging us; nevertheless our presence caused an unusual excitement. The shop doors were crowded, grave two sworders stopped and even turned round to gaze after us; a few old women hobbled away slightly alarmed, and many young ones looked on with curious eyes. But on our dismounting and entering a shop, a crowd of some hundreds immediately collected round the door, and as there were none of the officials present whose ostensible duty it was to protect us, it became at last very disagreeable. The shopkeeper, on one occasion, made a barrier of rope around his house to keep off the multitude; on another, at a china shop, the master set two of his men to take our horses and clear the crowd with their heels, which was done quite efficiently. But at last a band of “gamins,” like mischievous little imps as they are in all countries, began to hoot and cry, and throw little pieces of mud at us. The gesticulations of the shopmen were in vain; the fun seemed to spread from the boys to the grown-up people; there was nobody near of sufficient rank to influence the people, and we began to be threatened with serious annoyance. But a little champion soon rescued us. This was a little fellow about fourteen years old; but his two swords, one of which was almost as big as himself, and his silk and crape dress, must have informed the mob of his rank, for when he took up a stick and laid it about the persons in the foreground, the whole mass fell back without a murmur. They were as submissive to that two-sworded child, as a flock of sheep to a shepherd. He followed us into one or two other shops and protected us from any further annoyance.
Japan, the Amoor, and the Pacific (1861)
Once or twice I made excursions of some six miles into the heart of the city [Edo] under the escort of an officer, one of the three who had accompanied us on horseback a few days before; but there were several streets into which I could not prevail on him to conduct me. On my attempting to go alone, he implored me by words and gestures to refrain. I had remarked on former visits that several streets crossing the thoroughfares we passed were closed up by strong bars of wood and guarded by wardens, who allowed none to pass. Crowds of people were in these streets pressing on the barriers. I was now given to understand by this officer that there were many districts in the city where the feeling towards all foreigners was very hostile, and that those streets had been closed by order of the Government; the streets where they opposed my entrance were of that class.
Japan, the Amoor, and the Pacific (1861)
We went to see some most exquisite azalias which were growing in one of the adjoining gardens [near Nagasaki], in which we seated ourselves awhile, to rest and look about us, affording the worthy people ample time for another good scrutiny of the foreign importation. One woman, touching my dress, felt the steel of the crinoline, and looking up to my face with a puzzled expression, said something in Japanese, which I interpreted, “What is that?” Her tone of astonishment evidently rousing the curiosity of others, an old priest, who stood near, also began to touch my dress, and, as he would probably have been followed by others, I was compelled to signify that the examination must end, not caring to go through the same ceremony with all. ...
On our return home we attracted the usual amount of attention, especially in passing through some of the more unfrequented streets, in which the people seemed much amused at seeing me take my husband’s arm. One old man, catching hold of his good lady, who was nursing an infant, and, with dress disordered, exhibited a pretty fair portion of her person, placed her arm within his, endeavouring to walk as much as possible like us, to the undisguised merriment of the lookers-on, who burst into loud and prolonged shouts of laughter.
A Lady’s Visit to Manilla and Japan (1863)
The dogs were the only animals which showed their enmity to us, and this they did in a manner not to be mistaken. They rushed out of the houses, and barked at us in the most furious manner; but they are cowardly withal, and generally keep at a prudent distance.
These dogs appear to be of the same breed as the common Chinese dog, and both have probably sprung originally from the same stock. It is curious that they should have the same antipathy to foreigners as their masters. For, however civil and even kind the natives of Japan and China appear to be, yet there is no doubt that nine-tenths of them hate and despise us. Apparently such feelings are born with them, and they really cannot help themselves. That we are allowed to live and travel and trade in these countries is only because one class makes money out of us, and another and a larger one is afraid of our power. I fear we must come to the conclusion, however unwillingly, that these are the motives which keep Orientals on their good behaviour, and force them to tolerate us amongst them. The poor dogs have the same feelings implanted in their nature, but they have not the same hypocrisy, and therefore their hate is visible.
Yedo and Peking (1863)
As we rode out of the town the streets filled rapidly with a crowd, which grew larger and larger as we proceeded.
Every house turned out its quota, every cross-street poured in its thousands, until a surging sea of heads filled the street behind us. “To jin! To jin!” (Chinaman! Chinaman!) greeted us on all sides, till we were almost deafened. If one of us stopped and wheeled round, the effect was laughable: the whole crowd, now as eager to run away as they had been to follow us, turned, and those behind cried “forward,” while those before cried “back;” till we left them tumbling one over the other, all laughing, crying, and yelling at the same time. There was no intention to insult us, as often happened in the fishing villages where men and children would run after us, yelling “bacca! bacca!” (fool! fool!) In both Japan and China the farming population is the best behaved toward foreigners.
Across America and Asia (1870)
It is commonly believed in England that travelling in Japan is about equally dangerous with travelling in Central Africa or among the untamed Maories of New Zealand. A thrust of a dagger, or a cut of a razor-like sword-blade, is supposed to be the fate awaiting at every road-corner any foreigner rash enough to venture beyond the limits of the Treaty Ports. Our own trip into the country is but one among many others that can be brought to prove that such an idea does much injustice to the natives of the Land of the Sunrise.
Of the five or six instances of attempts to assassinate Europeans which have occurred within as many years in Japan, more than one were in all probability attempts on the parts of the murderers to avenge themselves for drunken frolics played upon them by Europeans of a low class, while the rest seem only to be accounted for by the inveterate hostility of some of the Daimios to foreigners of all kinds. This latter feeling seems to have much diminished of late years, and considering the hundreds of thousands of armed and comparatively idle men who exist in Japan as retainers to the various Daimios, the numbers of quarrels and assassinations which are known to occur in the country must be acknowledged to be remarkably small. Apart from this sworded class, the Japanese are a very peaceable and friendly people, and a traveller in the country parts cannot fail to be struck with the civility and ready welcome which meet him everywhere.
Round the World in 1870 (1872)
The Foreign Concession is in the eastern part of the city [Tokyo], lying along the bay. Its name (Ts’kiji) signifies “made land,” and it has been conceded by the government for the use and residence of foreigners. At present the only European building there is the hotel, which is an object of great interest to the natives. It is of foreign construction, though built by native mechanics under the superintendence of a European architect....
Watchmen patrol the foreign settlement all night, striking their staves upon the ground as they walk, making a jingling noise: they are expected to detect thieves or give warning in case of fire. A strong guard is placed at the gate of Ts’kiji. We have heard something of the guard being attacked and one of them killed by outsiders. Tales of Ro-nins (outlaws from the provinces) ready to do anything desperate to drive foreigners from the country have reached our ears.
Those who come into Ts’kiji have little blocks of wood with Chinese characters upon them hanging from their belts. These blocks answer to cards of admission, and no native can enter the lines without such blocks, which are given them by some official of the government.
In the midst of all these dangers and alarms come pleasant little tokens of esteem from the few friends we have made among the people during the short time we have lived here. They bring the pretty winter flowers of the country—camellias and chrysanthemums and the bright red berry (nan-ten) which we admire so much. Then they bring also oranges in neat boxes and baskets ornamented with sprigs of evergreens, or boxes of eggs and native sweetmeats; and all these evidences of kindly feeling on their part are very gratifying to us, who are so recently come, and still are strangers in a strange land.
The Sunrise Kingdom (1879)
We have rumors of serious troubles in the South. Tales of war and bloodshed reach our ears, and there is some doubt as to the result. But the rebels do not appear to be especially hostile toward foreigners. The prime minister does not give satisfaction; taxes are very oppressive, and the subject of the Corean war is being agitated.
There is always more or less trouble among the Satsuma clan. The papers give a sad account of the state of things in Nagasaki, but nothing has yet been authenticated. It will be some time before these things are finally settled and peace and order restored, but the government will take care to protect life and property.
Everything as yet is quiet in our city [Tokyo]; the government troops are gaining victories, and we pray here every day for protection. Many believe that all these things are the beginning of better times and of more liberty to both native and foreign inhabitants. But we often feel cramped and fettered. Our boundaries are fixed. The Foreign Concessions are pleasant, but we feel as though we should like to be free to live where we choose.
The Sunrise Kingdom (1879)
It was very early in our era ... that Japan began to have intercourse with Korea, and to derive thence aid and instruction which greatly facilitated the progress both of the fine and of the industrial arts; and few things are more striking even among the many striking things which may now be observed in Japan, than the complete and handsome manner in which her present scholars, historians and officers, recognise this ancient indebtedness to the people of the neighbouring peninsula. The Japanese have plenty of native pride, no doubt, but they appear to be without the false pride which deters some people from acknowledging the advantages which they have derived from others.
Japan: Its History, Traditions, and Religions (1880)
We are in the interior of the country [Gifu], where, no doubt, Europeans are rarely seen; at all events, much to our discomfort, we were fairly mobbed this afternoon when we went to see the cormorant-fishing. The people seemed to swarm round us, rushing on in front to secure good places for a stare, or diving down side streets to cut us off; for half a mile ahead our road was lined with spectators, not in the least rude, not an unkind word or look—only, wherever one turned, hundreds of eyes were gazing—gazing with all their might. I came back with a sort of hunted-animal feeling. But even in our tea-house rooms, if there was the slightest slit in the paper walls, there one was sure to see a pair of black bead-like eyes gleaming down, to be supplemented by two small fingers making two more holes for another pair of inquiring eyes, till literally the paper walls, behind which you have taken refuge after the day’s journey, seem to stare at you, and the crowded solitude becomes insupportable.
Journal of a Lady’s Travels Round the World (1883)
At Mibu, a troop of children of all sizes came clattering down the road after me. Taking out my opera-glass, I looked at them, and they scattered from before it like a flock of sheep; evidently they imagined it might go off like a gun. An old woman coming near, I beckoned her, and made signs that she take a look through the instrument, whereat great and emphatic were the exclamations of wonder and amazement. That brought up a neighbour, whose delight at seeing distance abolished was equally demonstrative. Two white-robed pilgrims returning from Nikko, respectfully solicit the privilege of looking through this wonder-working glass; and the effect obtained by reversing the instrument, making near objects distant, seems to be regarded as even more marvellous than the legitimate use of it. Then a carpenter stopped planing his board, and joined the gathering crowd; a smith left his forge; the children recovered courage and increased in numbers, till I think I had the whole village peeping by turn at the distant hills or nearer objects through my glass. As we rode away, their voices united in one great shout of parting good-will, “Sa-yo-na-ra! sa-yo-na-ra!”
Rambles Through Japan Without a Guide (1892)
The fine days at this [early summer] season were perfectly glorious; hot enough to give an inkling of what it would be like in the full blaze of summer, and yet with a taste of spring’s freshness left in the air. They were interspersed with too many wet or uncertain days, but, with the garden close by, I managed to waste very little time. The first lotus leaves were just coming up in the ponds and the irises blossoming round the water’s edge, the azalea bushes were covered with flowers, and the tips of the pale green maple boughs were tinged with rosy pink. When the pouring rain had begun to drip through my sketching umbrella, and I was driven in-doors, there was no lack of society. O Kazu San, a plain little thing with brown velvet eyes, and the rest of the girls were never tired of looking at my belongings, thumbing my sketch-books, and asking me endless questions; and though I was sometimes irritable, their good-humor was unlimited. This unvaried good temper is itself annoying, when the foreigner feels that it is not the result of sympathy, but because he is regarded as a strange animal, not to be judged by the rules which govern the conduct of civilized people.
Notes in Japan (1896)
In this same tea house, the same inquisitive but courteous manners were observable. As we ate, a crowd soon collected and the waitress would not leave the table alone, until we gently uttered a “mo yorushii,”—‘that will do,’—which was repeated to the onlookers with astonishment. When Japanese understand anything you say to them, they can scarcely control themselves for pleasure, and give vent to Gilbertian “harmless merriment,” with a vengeance.
Impressions of a Journey Round the World (1897)
◀ MissionariesMeeting and parting ▶