Until quite recently, a cordon of boats, stretched across this part of the [Nagasaki] harbour, barred the further progress of foreign ships. We found the obstruction represented only by one official boat, upon the deck, or rather roof, of which a gentleman was seated, reading placidly, and gently fanning himself. On our approaching nearer, he looked up and waved us benignly back with his fan. If he was the port guardian, he was by no means a formidable janitor, for on our holding on our way, regardless of his signals, he fell to reading again, apparently satisfied that he had discharged his duty, and was henceforward relieved from all further responsibility on our account. This man’s conduct furnished us with a key in all our future intercourse with Japanese officials, who, in spite of the vehemence of their protestations so long as they believe it possible to carry out their instructions, possess a marvellous facility of accepting whatever situation they find is inevitably to be forced upon them.
Narrative of the Earl of Elgin’s Mission to China and Japan (1859)
We passed two or three bridges which crossed the inner moat [in central Edo], and led into the palace and offices of the ministers. These personages and their servants may be seen daily going to office about nine or ten o’clock in the morning, and returning to their homes about four in the afternoon, much like what occurs at our own public offices. Some walk to office, some ride on horseback, and others go in norimons. Almost every man we met was armed with two swords.
Yedo and Peking (1863)
The whole system of municipal government in the cities in Japan seems very perfect. There is a mayor or governor ... and there are a certain number of deputies to assist him, and a class of officials who seem to be the intermediaries between the people and those in authority, and whose business it is to receive and present petitions, and to forward complaints to the governors, and plead the cause of the aggrieved memorialists. Then every street has its magistrate, who is expected to settle all disputes, to know the most minute details of the private and public affairs of every creature within his jurisdiction, as reported to him by spies, and to keep an accurate record of births, deaths, and marriages. He is responsible for all broils and disturbances, and for the good conduct of the street generally. This functionary is also provided with deputies, and is elected by the popular voice of the inhabitants of the street. To render the task easier, the male householders are divided into small companies of four or five each, the head of which is responsible to the magistrate for all the proceedings of the members. This complete organisation is furnished with a secretary, a treasurer, a certain number of messengers, &c. Besides the regular constables, it is patrolled at night by the inhabitants themselves, in parties of two or three. From all which it will appear that “our street,” in a Japanese city, must be a source of considerable interest and occupation to its inhabitants.
Narrative of the Earl of Elgin’s Mission to China and Japan (1859)
It is said that [the Emperor] is as narrowly watched by spies as any of his subjects. In fact, the more we investigate the extraordinary system under which Japan is governed, the more evident does it become, that the great principle upon which the whole fabric rests, is the absolute extinction of individual freedom: to arrive at this result, resort is had to a complicated machinery, so nicely balanced, that, as everybody watches everybody, so no individual can escape paying the penalty to society of any injury he may attempt to inflict upon it. One most beneficial result arising from this universal system of espionage—for it extends through all classes of society—is the entire probity of every Government employé. So far as we could learn or see, they were incorruptible. When men can neither offer nor receive bribes; when it is almost impossible, even indirectly, to exercise corrupt influences, there is little fear of the demoralisation of public departments of the State. In this respect Japan affords a brilliant contrast to China, and even to some European countries. So long as this purity exists, even though purchased at the cost of secret espial, there can be little cause to fear the decadence of the Empire.
Narrative of the Earl of Elgin’s Mission to China and Japan (1859)
On leaving one of these [mining] chambers, I gave the man who had hewn me some specimens [of ore] a small gratuity, which he thanked me for in the Japanese manner, by carrying the gift up to his forehead, and then placed it in his sleeve pocket. I then remarked a boy peering at us through the gloom. When half-way down the mountain I heard somebody shouting behind me, and the Japanese to whom I had given the piece of silver, came running after me, and returned the money with looks of the utmost fear and horror. Such is an example of the spy system pervading all classes. The boy had seen me give the man money; he, thinking us alone, had taken it, but on finding a third person present, he avoided the consequences of being reported by hurrying after me and returning the coin. This is only one of many instances I saw of the same thing during my stay in Japan.
Japan, the Amoor, and the Pacific (1861)
Another excellent way to get a little excitement in Japan is to attempt to cash a foreign money order. Take to the proper department of the proper post-office the little blue paper that stands for riches—and await developments. Note the pitying smile of the little clerk at any sign of impatience on your part; listen to his halting explanation about how in three weeks or so the Tokio Head Office will receive a duplicate of your paper, in two weeks more the Yokohama Branch Post-Office will receive a copy of this copy, and then if you will come again he will look into the matter. But do not on any account call the man a “silly idiot” or you will be pushing the fun too far. In Japan there is a heavy fine for calling Government officials “silly idiots”—a fine which must have been specially included in the Criminal Code for the benefit of the lawless European, as no Japanese would dream of doing such a thing. His ancestors, in feudal times, learned the lesson of respect for authority too thoroughly for that.
Behind the Screens (1910)
◀ MilitaryCrime and punishment ▶